Paris Fashion Week: Hermès Winter 2024

Under the rain that parades down the runway, Hermès intertwines the equestrian and motorcycling worlds in its latest Winter 2024 collection.

This fashion week in Paris is marked by evident humidity. Coincidentally (or not), on Hermès’s runway the weather was rainy—literally. Yes, the renowned French brand brought rain to its Winter 2024 show. This shift was almost a 180-degree reversal compared to last season’s atmosphere, in which models walked among shrubs. While that setting was rustic and natural, here it is decidedly urban and somber.

Creative director Nadège Vanhee conceived the idea of recreating “moments of movement,” as detailed in the press release. This includes everyday gestures like hailing a taxi, checking the time on a wristwatch, splashing through puddles in an island city, and elegantly adjusting a raincoat. And, as is characteristic of Hermès, everything was executed with exemplary sophistication and discretion.

The inspiration in this collection also echoes the equestrian world, an intrinsic part of the brand’s history, but is innovatively combined with elements of motorcycling. Equestrian breeches, for example, are deftly paired with cropped tops, while riding jackets lend their proportions and volumes to motorcycle jackets. The robust biker boots share space with riding boots, creating a subtly western fusion.

At the start of the Winter 2024 shows, the standout trend was clothing viewed as a protective tool. In this collection, that theme resurfaces in a superdeluxe version. One example is Hermès’s selection of leather coats for this season. From the roomiest to the most form-fitting, they will be coveted investments for many clients passionate about the maison’s excellent savoir-faire. For those seeking something more delicate, silk dresses with scarf prints are a perfect—and extremely desirable—choice.